TOPMAN LENS Collection

Written by Carly Temple | Wednesday, April 2, 2008 |

New designers at Lens…

TOPMAN is fast filling up with brightly coloured t-shirts and shorts for spring, but for those of you looking for something out of the ordinary to update your wardrobes, head to the Lens section. Two exciting new designers have been added to the area this season. Up and coming menswear labels Material Boy and Mjolk debut alongside past successes Neue, Carolyn Massey, and Dexter Wong.

We caught up with both designers to find out what’s behind the stir on the shop floor…

Material Boy

Young Australian Mic Easton established Material Boy in 2004. He started out with a capsule collection of denim wear and now boasts a comprehensive menswear collection offering bold, expressive and directional pieces. His range for Lens is an eclectic mix of oversized leisurewear and graphic printed hoodies, cut away panel t-shirts, skinny cotton Lycra trousers and pleat front tennis shorts.

So you have collaborated with TOPMAN on their March Lens collection, how did that come about?

B storeowner Mathew Murphy approached me for the collaboration late last year.

You’re originally from Australia? Does the laid back sunny lifestyle inspire your designs?

Not really, I am a laid back, I don’t see my designs this way.

What is your background in fashion and design?

Not a lot, 5 years of production management and creative director and head designer of 3 brands.

As an untrained designer do you find any superiority problems with designers that have trained at say Central St. Martins etc?

Not really, I don’t think I would’ve achieved what I have if I went to design school. I get all dreamy about going do my masters at Royal Academy of Antwerp, I think it would be an interesting experience to go back and learn different ways and techniques of putting together collections.

How would you describe the Material Boy style? It’s very androgynous would you agree with that?

Well my current collection is androgynous, It’s a unique look each season.

You also have another range, Another Boy? From what we have seen of this line it’s much darker then Material Boy is this the other side of your personality? Which line do you feel is more personal?

Material boy is the more honest collections that respect how I’m feeling at the time of a putting the ideas together. W08-09 is Another Boy’s second collection and now starting it’s third, this project also becoming quiet close to me. The difference of the collections are Another Boy is instinctual, Material Boy is based around a concept.

Do you wear your own brands?

Yes.

How would you describe your own personal style?

Clean, minimal , unique, individual and effortless.

Do you have favourite designers or brands?

Many….John Galliano, Bernhard Willhelm, Com de Garsons, Bless, Jessie Hill, Marjion Pejoski, Adam Entwisle.

Would you say your designs fit well in the current scene? Do you feel fashion is led by music trends?

There are so many scenes, even within the fashion circles, I would say I fit into a circle of new generation designer. I’m new, unknown and young. I think music inspires looks and styles more than fashion.

MJOLK

Mjolk was also created in 2004 by menswear designer and Denmark Designkole (DKDS) graduate Lars Stoten and St Martins graduate John Clarke. The pair, now based in New York, are an exciting new force in menswear. They are establishing a strong signature style through their use of premium fabrics and amazingly detailed artisan craftsmanship. Their collection for TOPMAN has a utilitarian feel, interspersed with intense bursts of colour. We love the simple trench coats, which are an ideal weight for spring. Also worth checking out is the slickly tailored denim waistcoat.

So you have collaborated with TOPMAN on their March Lens collection, how did that come about?

I was invited by Matthew Murphy of B Store, London who is behind the project. I think it is a great opportunity, though our concepts are quite controlled I am really grateful to be involved. What is your background in fashion and design? I was schooled in garment design at Denmark Design School (DKDS) and went on to complete further studies at Otaru Bunka, Japan in mens bespoke tailoring. I spent two years in Japan completing internships and eventually working as a jnr designer & pattern maker with Shimauchi Kasuke, Japanese theatre costume designer. I grew up at a cutting table and behind a sewing machine. One grandfather had a wool pleating factory in Jutlan (Denmark) and my other grandfather owned a dress factory in Brick Lane. I spent my childhood between the two.

Your style is very rock ‘n’ roll, missing clean suiting with edgy patterns and shapes. How would you describe the Mjolk style?

I think my design philosophy is one of discretion; a strong traditional base, where the demand for individuality is key. .does that even make sense.. it does to me!? It’s a deliberate mix of innovational but understated craft & design and old school make and fabric.

Your brand has been championed by the likes of David Bowie, Scissor Sisters and Pete Doherty. Do you have a lot of rock ‘n’ roll clientele?

Our clientelle really does come from all walks of life (and budgets). I work for the kid that has saved up for weeks to buy some kit as well as the guy that has 4 kids and it’s his turn to change the nappy. We have fashion savvy clients who track the release of new ranges as well as talented artists of all walks wearing the kit. The fact that successful, nice people are wearing Mjölk is meaningful to us.

Would you say your designs fit well in the current scene? Do you feel fashion is led by musical trends?

What is the current scene I have no idea?! There are so many it would be inaccurate to try and pigeon hole our designs and the myriad of scenes going on throughout London right now. Mjölk designs are not created to fit a buyer’s frame. For this reason, they aren’t going to be everyone’s cup of tea. That’s ok. Depending on who and how the garments are being worn our ranges fit into many different scenes, on different levels but overall I guess I can say that I don’t look at current trends much. Mainstream, high street fashion is definitely affected, perhaps lead by musical trends, but I think Music pulls from fashion on a higher level too. Its one great round. Perhaps there is a more visible influence from music outwards though, I wouldn’t really know.

Does music influence your designs? At your shows you have live bands and a real rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic. Do you have particular artists or bands that inspire your work?

I love music and to some degree, occasionally there may be reference to a band, or a particular look when gathering inspiration for a collection. Of course music energizes & inspires me so on that level in can permeate into my designs. A few winters back we used a live band for a show we did. Usually it is not that obvious. My ipod is full of everything from Woody Guthrie, Dolly Parton through to The Velvet Underground and Phylis Dylon. I am right now thoroughly depressing myself with The National..a beautiful sound, a talented bunch.

Do you wear your own brand?

Yes. But not exclusively.

How would you describe your own personal style?

My collection’s tailoring (the finish) endeavours to imitated the meticulous methods of manufacturing that took place in the early part of the last century (particularly the 30s and 40s); namely the traditional and hand finishing process behind each individual piece. So I enjoy a well crafted garment. But I am not actually that thoughtful about my own style actually I am particularly fond of a nice primary colour.. Wow that is a tough question.

Do you have favourite designers or brands?

Jorn Utzon. Yves Saint Laurent. Morris, Marshall, Faulkner & Co.

The new Lens collection is on sale now in selected stores and online at www.topman.com. Price points start at £30 for a t-shirt and up £120 for a jacket.

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